written by Harveer Singh
The future is a daunting concept. For a 16-year-old, it means choosing the right university; for a final-year student, it’s about defining a life direction; and for a long-married couple, it might revolve around the decision to have a baby. But what does “the future” signify for fashion? Is it the looming threat of consumerism, overproduction, and waste, or is there hope for a more equitable, climate-conscious approach?
As the Indian fashion industry garners global acclaim—from couturiers like Rahul Mishra and Gaurav Gupta to innovative labels like Kartik Research and Dhruv Kapoor—one name stands out: Ritwik Khanna’s Rkive City. Established in 2021, this New Delhi-based research and design house is redefining circular fashion* in ways that are both profound and pioneering.
Beyond its impeccable design language, what distinguishes Rkive City is its unwavering commitment to repair and longevity. While reworking old garments is a sustainable practice, the energy and resources expended in breaking down these garments can be counterproductive. As Khanna aptly articulates, “If something can be recycled, could it have been re-worn or repaired before being broken down into fibre form?” This fundamental question inspired the birth of Rkive City.
Rooted in the principle of extending product lifecycles, Rkive City draws from Khanna’s heritage, employing age-old Indian techniques—such as intricate embroidery and an emphasis on natural patina—to repair and rejuvenate garments. Their vision transcends clothing, extending to upholstery and collectables, envisioning a world where anything is possible. Focusing primarily on denim, Rkive City curates a stunning array of pieces across different ages, washes, and cuts, each telling its own compelling story, woven into the fabric of history. The quintessential Rkive denim collection showcases expertly tailored hunter jackets that embody clean, structured silhouettes, complemented by double zippers for a contemporary edge.
From straight-fit to baggy jeans, each piece reflects the unique history of the original denim, resulting in a diverse palette of shades. Despite being reworked, these jeans maintain a classic and timeless appeal, while the emphasis on natural patina lends each item depth and character. The iconic blazers, featuring fringed hems, strikingly juxtapose tailored elegance with streetwear grunge, creating a harmonious blend of styles that defines Rkive's aesthetic.
A Vogue India Article by Tanya Mehta rightly says, “Each piece created by the brand is entirely unique, a jacket is made out of three different pairs of jeans and a pair of carpenter pants can be engineered out of fabrics of a similar colour from different years to showcase the contrast in age. With a selection of vintage graphic T-shirts, the focal point is the specialty denim – tailored blazers, panelled jeans, skirts with angular knife pleats featuring an unexpected front pocket and quintessential double-knee pants.”
At just three years old, Rkive City is akin to a spark that is just beginning to ignite—small yet brimming with potential, flickering with energy as it evolves into something vibrant and enduring. Khanna’s ground-breaking vision for a sustainable, circular fashion system, particularly in addressing post-consumer textile waste, has garnered well-deserved recognition, culminating in their victory at the R|Elan Circular Design Challenge 2024, where they competed against some of the top global talents in sustainable fashion. As Grazia India posted, “Ritwik Khanna, the creative force behind Rkive City, has carved a unique niche in the fashion industry by focusing on sustainability and circularity. With a background shaped by his time at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology and hands-on experience in textile waste management in India, Khanna’s journey is one of innovation rooted in reimagining post-consumer textiles”.
In a world preoccupied with the next new purchase, the latest trend, or the must-have designer bag, Rkive City emerges as a source of inspiration, championing responsible production and consumption. It’s refreshing to see such brands gain recognition in an industry often dominated by luxury labels flaunting recognisable logos. Rkive City rejects outdated industry norms and is paving the way for a new paradigm—one that prioritises sustainability and ethical practices.
This shift is precisely what the future of fashion needs, and it marks a promising direction for the industry.
*Circular fashion refers to an economic model aimed at eliminating waste and the continual use of resources. It encourages the design of products that can be reused, repaired, refurbished, and recycled, promoting sustainability and reducing environmental impact.
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